Thursday 31 October 2013

The creative process behind the Tie

It’s time again for our creative team to start putting new ideas on the table, thinking about the new collection and working closely with our manufacturers to ensure they can turn our visions into beautiful product!
A couple of weeks ago ‘The creative team’ took a trip to the countryside to visit our silk weaver whom has been weaving silk since 1704. It was time to work on the new Penrose collection; the ‘pre-mill’ process includes endless research from an abundance of sources. It may sound like a cliché but we really can draw inspiration from anywhere! Our surroundings, travels, exhibitions, archives, sifting and sketching the entire time – and this process never ends, we are continually collecting images and ideas.  It is important to look around and absorb your surroundings; you never know what you might be missing! We had plenty of ideas to bring to the table so sat down with some of the designers and the technical team in order to realise our designs.


One of my favourite things about this trip is indulging in the archives, there is such an extensive collection of hand drawn designs, weaving patterns, silk swatches and much more that it is a serious treat for the eyes. All of Penrose London’s collections are designed by our team in house at our showroom in Soho, but routing through archives always sparks ideas for construction and textures.

Endless Archives!


For each of our designs we discuss the scale and placement of the design, the way in which the ground of the tie should be constructed and of course the colour palette!

Putting together our tie collection initial designs and initial woven silk for design approval
 Colouring is one of the most important processes for every product in our collection. At Penrose, we pride ourselves in being ‘Colour rich’ and not ‘Colourful’ and selecting our palette is a method that cannot be taught!

Colour selections

 From this stage, we leave our designs and colour palette in the hands of the manufacturing team, our designs will first be put into a ‘CAD’ format (computer aided design) and then transferred into a weaving pattern. The weaving pattern calculates how the loom will weave the silk to create the correct design, the correct construction and texture – it is an extremely complex process and best left to the professionals! The mill then send us a patchwork blankets showing each design in a series of colour ways taken from our palette – firstly we approve (or occasionally discard) the design and finally select our preferred colours!

Once we have done this for every design we hand it back to the mill to let the weaving process commence in order to give us a sample collection. The weaving takes approximately 3 weeks before it is passed on to the tie maker and a further 4 weeks down the line…. we have a sample tie collection. The entire process from idea to sample takes approximately 3 months, each design has a story, is coloured with love and finished by hand.

Our AW14 collection is now in working progress, take a look at some of our sumptuous ties for this Autumn/Winter now available online